Planting / Pruning / Care of Roses

Roses are often referred to as Queen of the Shrubs. They are certainly one of the most popular garden shrubs. With the right care they will give you years of pleasure.
As long ago as 1840 a collection numbering over 1000 varieties and species was available to plant in a Rosarium  being planted for the Abney Park cemetery in England.

House & Garden have catalogues showing the range of roses available and will gladly give you a hard copy of “how to care for your roses”.

A word of caution - a rose is a rose is rose – not so!!

Most dedicated garden centres – such as House & Garden - only stock what are known as “high health” roses which are grown from disease free stem stocks, also the stems are stronger and more advanced which means more vigorous growth.  The staff are also qualified to assist and advise.

Types of Roses:

1. Bush: Bush rose varieties may be either of the following types:
   1. Hybrid tea: Produce flowers of classic form with large often scented blooms with pointed centres.
   2. Floribunda: Produce clusters of flowers in profusion throughout the growing season. Generally the flowers are smaller than hybrid tea types.
2. Miniatures:   Smaller plants with similarly smaller flowers.
3. Climbers: Can be either hybrid tea or floribunda. Climbers include pillar roses which are smaller growing than some of the other climbing varieties.
4. Standards: Grafted onto a long stem - may have hybrid tea or floribunda type flowers, depending on variety.
5. Carpet: This variety is an evergreen and grows to around 60cm in height. They are disease resistant. They can be pruned using hedge clippers and are low maintenance in care.

Rose Care:
When you purchase a rose plant you will need to attend to the following before you plant it:

1. Check the top of the plant and cut back any broken stems to a good bud.
2. When Winter planting, take the rose out of its container and trim back any damaged or straggly roots.

If you are not sure how to go about this ask the garden centre staff to show you.
Now you are ready to proceed.

A. Planting:
Roses should be planted in a sunny position in a well-drained soil, sheltered from prevailing winds. If a rose has been grown in the area previously, remove some of the soil and replace with fresh soil.

Dig a large round hole, with a mound in the centre from which the roots are spread out. Add some organic material (e.g. peat, "Rose Mulch", compost or "Bioblend") to the soil around the roots and plant firmly keeping the bud union (i.e. the base of the branches) 20 - 30mm above the soil.

It is best not to apply general garden rather use a product such as “Magamp” which is a slow release granule and will last for up to two years.

B. Pruning:
Pruning should take place when all foliage has dropped and the new young buds are starting to swell – usually July for the Southern hemisphere.
Note however that ramblers and climbers can be pruned after flowering.
Make sure your secateurs are clean and sharp.

• All dead, weak or diseased growth should be removed.
• As the sap rises to the highest point try to have all the pruning cuts at the same height on the canes.
• Remove between one third and two thirds of the cane.
• The more vigorous the variety the lighter the pruning should be – the harder you prune a vigorous variety the harder it will fight back.
• Newly planted roses can be pruned hard to encourage them to produce strength growth.

• The main branches need to be pruned back to 5 - 10mm above a dormant outward-facing bud, making an angled cut above the bud to ensure that water is readily shed – refer the pictures above.
• Pruning cuts should have a wound dressing material applied to prevent disease infection.
• The further you cut back the more vigorous the growth in spring.
• A prime objective of pruning is cutting back in such a way that the rose will grow in a shape that will maximise healthy growth and allow sunlight in to the rose.

The best way to describe the ideal shape is as follows:
Put your hands together as if you are clapping – keeping the tips of your fingers on each hand together bend your fingers to create an “arch”. Now holding your wrists together bend your fingers back – got it? Just keep that image in mind when pruning which means you will not cut back to any buds facing inwards AND you will remove any stems growing inwards.
House and Garden staff will be happy to advise you if you are not quite sure how to start.

Climbers are probably the most difficult to prune. It is a question of choosing the main stems which you wish to keep and cutting the lateral shoots back to a bud up to 15 cm above the main stem.

C. Feeding:
Rose fertiliser should be applied in Spring and again in Summer as a side dressing; NOT in the hole when planting (except for "Magamp" as mentioned previously).
Apply the fertiliser in the “shadow” created by the foliage – it should be dug in very lightly.

D. Pest and Disease Control:
After planting and after pruning spray roses with "Champion Copper" (or "Copper Oxychloride"), and "Conqueror Oil" (which can be applied together), this will ensure that the rose hits its straps in Spring disease free.
During the growing stage most pests and diseases are readily controlled by applications of products such as "Super Shield" and "Shield".
"Shield" produces a shiny finish to the leaves, leaving no sign of spray deposit.   
If you are unsure of any disease or pest problem which may be affecting your roses ask our staff and or bring a sample of the leaf in to our store.
Aphids can be a problem but if you are alert you will spot the little rascals early and spray with “Shield” – this product is both a pesticide and a fungicide.

E. Watering:
Roses like plenty of water, especially over Summer when they are actively growing. While roses should not be allowed to dry out, they will not tolerate 'wet feet' caused by waterlogged soil. If this is a problem, it is advisable to provide adequate drainage prior to planting by raising the rose beds above surrounding areas.
Try to avoid using sprinklers when the roses are in direct sunlight as this can leave marks on the leaves and discolour any blooms.

F. De-heading:
This may sound like a bit of a chore but it is well worth it as it will prolong the time your rose will bloom.
Once a bloom has finished and starts to die off cut back to the first cluster of five leaves – the leaves will be in clusters of three, four or five.

Lastly if you need help our staff will gladly assist.

Marigold Botanicus
House & Garden
Church Corner
03 3411022
marigold@housegarden.co.nz